Verona is a compact, charming city of just over 250,000 inhabitants. A flourishing Roman colony by the first century BC, Verona today has a collection of Roman landmarks second only to Rome's, as well as fine examples of medieval and Renaissance architecture. Most tourist activity is concentrated in the historic centre, which measures 1½ mls from E to W and N to S and sits snugly within a bend of the River Adige. The busiest area lies between Piazza Bra, Piazza delle Erbe and Piazza Duomo, all delightful squares linked by a labyrinth of charming cobbled streets and narrow lanes. With restricted access to vehicles within the city walls, walking between the numerous sights is convenient and enjoyable. A number of fine bridges across the river lead to the suburbs N and E of the city, of which the Veronetta district offers a pleasant local atmosphere away from the tourist hordes. In summer the city is rather crowded and hot - late spring and autumn are more comfortable times to visit. From July to Sept, Verona is thronged with visitors for the famous opera performances at the Arena - one of the finest of all Roman amphitheatres. As the setting for Shakespeare's epic tragedy, Romeo and Juliet, Verona is popular with romantics. Italy's largest wine festival is held here in April.

Attracts a broad range of visitors, from backpackers to wealthy tourists. Plenty to entertain culture-vultures, history buffs and lovers of art, literature and architecture. As the supposed home of Romeo and Juliet, it is popular with lovers the world over. Many Swiss and German visitors during opera season.

Good selection, with a broad range of prices and standards, including several luxury establishments and cosy guesthouses. More expensive in the city centre, with cheaper options towards the outskirts. Plenty of charming, characterful properties.

Lots to interest shopaholics, from tacky Romeo and Juliet souvenirs to top designer garments. A great variety is on offer in the narrow streets around the Arena; several fashion boutiques along pedestrianised Via Mazzini and Via Cappello. A vibrant market is held on the Piazza delle Erbe. Verona is famous for its shoes and local wines.

Daytime: impressive Roman monuments, notably the Arena (a Roman amphitheatre), a smaller Roman theatre (dating to first century BC) and the town gates (marking the entrance to the Roman city); several churches, such as St Anastasia (Verona's largest), the 12th-century Duomo (cathedral) and St Maria Antica (with tombs of the famous Scaliger family); the Castelvecchio, a fascinating castle with an impressive bridge and museum of Veronese art; other museums covering natural history and modern art; many walking tours embracing charming piazzas (dei Signori and delle Erbe, framed by numerous fine mansions) and monuments to Shakespeare's Romeo and Juliet. Nightlife: acclaimed summer opera festival at the Arena, with rock concerts and plays also held here through the year; concerts and Shakespeare's plays at several venues, notably the Roman theatre; many bars and cafes around Piazza Bra and Piazza delle Erbe for expensive drinks and people watching; cheaper options and local flavour in Veronetta district; a couple of cinemas (occasional English-language films) and nightclubs.

Plenty of choice. Expensive restaurants in the historical core, particularly around Piazza Bra and Piazza delle Erbe. Many traditional, good-value trattorias, notably in the Veronetta district. Fast-food options include familiar burger joints. Numerous cafes. A few stalls in the Piazza delle Erbe market. Ubiquitous pizza and pastas. Gnocchi is a local favourite; fish dishes are also popular. Local wines are cheap and highly rated; ice cream available on every corner.

Verona is for walking, though an efficient bus service links outlying areas (tickets purchased in advance from newsstands and tobacconists). Good train service to the regional towns, major cities and some international destinations. Car hire available at main station; parking is best in the outskirts. Bicycle hire is popular.

Full day: Venice, Padua, Vicenza and Mantua, all interesting historical towns; the small town of Este, renowned for ceramics; medieval Montagnana; resorts of Lake Garda, notably Garda and Sirmione; surrounding countryside including several vineyards; Gardaland, a children's theme park. Two days: Trento, gateway to the Dolomites and a good base for summer hikes and winter skiing; Adriatic coast; nature reserves of the Po delta.

In the N province of Veneto. 290 mls N of Rome. 100 mls E of Milan. 70 mls W of Venice. 7 mls NE of Valerio Catullo airport at Verona Villafranca.

Generally flat, straddling the meandering River Adige. Hilly to the N and surrounded by the rich farmland and vineyards of the Po basin.

Website: www.tourism.verona.it

Airport : Verona
Airport Code: VRN
Flight time from ther U.K.: 2 hrs