Although just 27 mls long and 14 mls wide, St Lucia packs a lot of scenery into a relatively small area: dramatic mountains, tropical forests, banana plantations, quaint - if rather ramshackle - villages and inviting beaches. The lush, verdant landscape results from higher-than-expected rainfall (especially from Aug to Nov), which can be heavy at times - although it usually departs as quickly as it arrives. The island has a distinct French flavour, acquired during the 18th century when St Lucia was the subject of a long-standing power struggle between the French and British. "Ownership" changed hands no fewer than 14 times and the island was eventually given over to the British in 1814; but historical reminders of its turbulent French inheritance are evident in the place names, dialect and creole food. The capital, Castries, on the NW coast, can be hot, humid and dirty, and the only reason for visiting would be its modest but colourful market; the town was destroyed by fire in 1947 and the only surviving building of historical interest is the cathedral. Most of the hotels are situated on the W and NW coasts, with the largest cluster beside Reduit Beach in Rodney Bay, where there is a large yacht marina plus shops, restaurants, banks and charter boats to nearby islands.

St Lucia has something for everybody: good beaches, spectacular scenery and quality hotels. The younger crowd may be a little disappointed with the nightlife, which generally caters for families and more mature clientele.

A wide range of prices and properties - from small guesthouses to international resort hotels - but the emphasis is on large, upmarket properties. Some hotels have an "all-inclusive" policy where meals, drinks and facilities are all included in the rates. Several offer special deals for children and have their own children's clubs. Some of the properties are at the end of long, sometimes unmade, tracks, and getting around can be challenging and expensive.

Calmer seas are found on the W Caribbean side of the island and the best beaches are to the NW where the major hotel developments are located. There are long stretches intermingled with small coves, but inevitably each has a hotel located at the water's edge. The secluded coves are usually inaccessible by road or set on the Atlantic coast where the beaches are windswept and the sea rough, suitable only for windsurfing and turtle watches. Close to and S of Soufriere, the beaches are volcanic sand (flecked with black) - a surprise to visitors expecting white sandy beaches. Overall beach quality differs greatly, with the more accessible options sometimes being overcrowded and some others being disappointingly dark and narrow. The only white sand you will find is imported from other islands and needs to be replenished frequently.

Plenty of street and beach vendors selling local handicrafts, wood carvings, basket work and the usual T-shirts. Widest choice of retail opportunities are found around Rodney Bay with a modern mall, supermarket and variety of smaller outlets. About 2 mls N of Castries, a small mall - Gablewoods - contains 30 to 40 shops and some dining options. The capital itself offers a local market, especially vibrant on Saturdays, but little else for the tourist. Duty-free is available at the Pointe Seraphine cruise-ship centre near Castries, although this is used almost exclusively by boat passengers. The international airport has a small selection of duty-free goods on which to use up the last of the local currency.

Daytime: mainly beach based with a variety of water sports including skiing, windsurfing, kite-surfing, sailing and a number of dive centres; also tennis, squash, horse riding, hiking and mountain biking; exploring the island independently, via a tour or by helicopter if you have the funds; golf (1 course has views of both the Atlantic and Caribbean). Nightlife: centred on the hotels with local shows, limbo dancing, crab racing and other attractions. The area around Rodney Bay (including the marina) has numerous restaurants, bars, a pub and disco. Gros Islet is the venue for the Friday night "jump up", a street party with food stalls, makeshift bars and plenty of dancing. The National Cultural Centre in Castries and Lighthouse Theatre at Tapion offer regular shows and plays along with a spring jazz festival. Carnival season reaches the island in July.

A wide range, from small local cafes to international restaurants, family owned to multinational chains. The many cuisines include French, Creole, Italian, Mexican, Chinese, Indian and seafood. Not to be missed are lobster, king prawns, red snapper, roti (roast joint), curried goat, pepperpot stew, callaboo soup and myriad fresh fruits and vegetables.

Minibuses ply all the main roads, not to a schedule or system, but very cheaply. They are easy to find on the road above Castries. Taxis are more convenient, but tend to be expensive and have no meters so prices must be negotiated prior to the journey. Car hire is available, but a local driving licence is necessary and can be obtained at immigration in the airport or from the major hire companies. A couple of hotels arrange airport transfers by helicopter at a charge.

Tours to the old French town of Soufriere, taking in the majestic twin peaks of the Piton Mountains and Diamond Falls botanical gardens, waterfall and sulphur springs. Plantation tours including Fond d'Or, Fond Doux and Morne Coubaril. Fond Latisab Creole Park at Babonneau for a taste of the local way of life. Historic Pigeon Island. Rainforest hikes and naturalists' expeditions. Tours by all-terrain vehicle. Mountain climbing in the Pitons (highest point on the island). Bird-watching. Whale- and turtle-watching. Scuba diving and snorkelling. Deep-sea fishing. Daytime or sunset cruises. Shopping tours of local batik and silk-screen cotton printing. Excursions to nearby islands of Dominica, Barbados, Bequia, Mustique and the Grenadines.

In the far E of the Caribbean, 80 mls SE of Dominica. 21 mls S of Martinique. 100 mls NW of Barbados. International airport 40 mls SE of Castries (via twisting road); smaller airport at Castries.

Midmost of the Windward Islands.

Website: www.stlucia.org

Airport : Hewanorra
Airport Code: UVF
Flight time from ther U.K.: 9 hrs.