Santorini

The current shape of Santorini was formed in a massive volcanic explosion in the 15th century BC. The crater of the volcano collapsed into the sea, leaving the E rim jutting sharply from the water. The event was so catastrophic that it has sparked speculation that Santorini could have been the mythical Atlantis. Thira, the horseshoe-shaped main island commonly referred to as Santorini, faces the small islands of Therasia and Aspronisi in the NW and SW respectively. It is 12 mls long and from varies from 1½ to 5 mls in width. At the centre of the crater are 2 cone-shaped islands, Palea Kameni and Nea Kameni, formed by subsequent eruptions. The W edge of Thira has dramatic red-black cliffs, while the E side, shaped by lava flows over the years, is a plain gently sloping to the sea. A place which lives up to the hype, Santorini is dramatic, with stark mountains, a deep, clear, dark-blue sea and memorable sunsets; the views are particularly good from Fira, the village of Oia and the top of the main volcano. The island has a mainly agricultural background - producing tomatoes, pistachios and grapes for wine as well as exporting pumice stone - but its main revenue-earner is tourism. It continues to develop sporadically, but money often runs out, so the island is littered with abandoned concrete skeletons, and there is a general air of tattiness in the main tourist areas. FIRA, the largest town on the island, is perched on a sheer 1,000-ft cliff on the W coast and boasts a stunning approach by boat - and equally stunning views from the town, which is reached via 800 steps on foot or donkey, or by cable car from the old port, a docking place for passing cruise ships. The old town is made up of steep, narrow, cobbled streets of shops, tavernas, churches, fast-food eateries, 2 cathedrals, no cars and lots of people. Day-trippers frequently swell tourist numbers. For those more interested in beaches than sunset views, head E to KAMARI or PERISSA, both of which lie on the coastal plain, backed by mountains. The original village of Kamari was destroyed by an earthquake in 1956 and rebuilt in local style. Its main beachside road has wall-to-wall hotels, tavernas, nightclubs and tourist agencies. It lies under the flight path from the airport, 1½ mls to the N. Perissa, and the adjoining beach of Perivolos, is a picturesque resort stretching back 2 or 3 mls alongside farmland; this area has a Byzantine church and a couple of Venetian castles.

All ages and types, with younger people more prevalent in peak season, especially in Fira and Kamari. Santorini is one of Greece's more upmarket islands, although all budgets can be accommodated. Popular for weddings and honeymoons.

Small hotels, apartment blocks and pensions, tending towards middle- to upmarket quality and rates.

The most popular beaches - which can get crowded - line the E coast, offering coarse black sand, clean water and good swimming, although the sea floor shelves quite steeply; the black sand can become very hot, so sandals are recommended. There are also a few small isolated rocky beaches with good swimming opportunities. All types of water sports are available, as are loungers and sun umbrellas. Kamari Beach, with coarse sand and pebbles, is relatively well maintained and quiet, while Perissa Beach - the longest on the island, with 5 mls of sand - offers the best water sports. Both of these have loungers, sun umbrellas and plenty of bars and restaurants. Koloumbos Beach on the NE coast is a nudist beach and accessible only by car.

The beach resorts have mostly practical shops such as supermarkets and greengrocers. A wider selection is on offer in Fira, encompassing clothing, local art and handicrafts, and the usual touristy items; jewellery shops abound, catering to the cruise-ferry market.

Daytime: beach and water sports, including windsurfing, water-skiing, pedalloes, diving and snorkelling; sailing. Island explorations taking in the ruins of ancient Thira (9th century BC), the monastery of Profitis Ilias, a Venetian fortress at Pirgos and the ancient site of Akrotiri. Archaeological museums in Fira. Small water park outside Perissa. Nightlife: good choice of bars, discos and nightclubs, especially in Fira. Traditional Greek evenings with dancing and plate-smashing. Open-air cinema at Kamari.

More than 300 eateries, offering everything from traditional Greek food to pizzas and burgers. International restaurants include Chinese, Italian, Spanish and Portuguese. A local speciality is fresh fish with capers and goat's cheese; "tsikoudia", the local wine, is also worth trying. Tap water is chlorinated and safe to drink but it is in short supply, brought in by boat, and in high season might be cut off.

A good network of frequent buses serves all parts of the island, but they can get crowded in peak season. Taxis are comparatively expensive and although in theory operate to fixed rates, these can vary with the driver. Boats serve various routes between villages. Car and motorbike hire are readily available, but bear in mind that roads are generally busy and dangerous in places owing to a combination of sharp bends and tourists on rented motorbikes. The height of the mountains makes travelling time between villages considerable.

Full day: variety of boat trips around the island and to the volcanic islets of Palea Kameni, Nea Kameni and Therasia; archaeological tour of the island; wine-tasting and sightseeing tour; fishing trips.

In the Aegean Sea, off the SE Greek mainland and the Peloponnese. 65 mls N of Crete. 30 mls S of Naxos. Fira, the capital, is 10 mls NW of the airport, close to the village of Monolithos. The resort of Kamari on the E coast lies just 1½ mls S of the airport.

At the S end of the Cyclades group of islands.

Telephone Area Code: 22860
Website: www.santorini.gr

Airport : Santorini
Airport Code: JTR
Flight time from ther U.K.: 3 hrs 30 mins