Said to be the world's most isolated capital, this big, modern city could be mistaken for parts of Hong Kong or London were it not for its laid-back attitude and small-town feel. At its heart is the "Central Business District" (CBD), around 1 ml across and dominated by a vast, open-air, pedestrianised shopping precinct known as the Perth City Malls, which offers the usual modern retail experience along with some attractive, older arcades. To its W is Kings Park, 3 sq mls of parkland which act as the city's "lungs", and just N of the centre is lively Northbridge, full of restaurants, pavement cafes and entertainment venues, and frantically busy at weekends as a result. Greater Perth sprawls along the coast for almost 20 mls with only Fremantle offering anything of further interest: more visually appealing than the central area, the buzz of its cafes and markets gives a much-needed lift to this otherwise conservative beachside city.

More for couples than families, because - zoo and beaches aside - there are few attractions for young children.

Mostly 4- and 5-star skyscraper hotels; a smattering of smaller concerns in the beach areas.

Lovely 20-ml expanse of soft white sand stretching N through the suburbs of Cottesloe and beyond. Although there are no palm trees and beachside entertainment is rather lacking, the beaches themselves are pleasantly free of crowds and an ice-cream is never far away.

Centrally placed Perth City Malls sell much the same as you could find at home. American-style shopping malls are dotted throughout suburbs; Pioneer Village in Armadale (15 mls SW of the centre) is a glorified shopping mall, with themed outlets selling handicrafts. Two lively markets at Fremantle; weekend markets at Subiaco, a trendy suburb 2 mls W of the centre.

Daytime: zoo; beach; Perth Cultural Centre including Museum and Art Gallery of Western Australia; Perth Mint; heritage trails through Fremantle. Nightlife: Perth Entertainment Centre hosts ballet, comedy etc; cinemas (discount on Tues nights); huge casino; restored Edwardian theatre. "Perth and Fremantle Today", free from the tourist office, lists what's on where.

Northbridge features every kind of eating experience, from pricey fish restaurants to covered food halls where you pick and mix international cuisine from a variety of stalls and then eat at tables in the centre. Choose from Thai, Korean, Malaysian, Indonesian, Vietnamese, Cantonese, French, Italian or Lebanese. Most hotels have their own restaurants.

An efficient, cheap, integrated system run by Transperth, with train and bus stations right in the centre and a free transport zone, within which a bus ticket isn't needed. A zonally priced railway system with trains to the suburbs. Bus, train and ferry services run to Fremantle, with ferries available to Rottnest Island. A replica tram links the main tourist areas.

Ferries to Rottnest Island, home of the beaver-like quokka; also to Fremantle, passing "Millionaires' Row" of houses belonging to Australia's elite; whale-watching trips in season (Sept to Nov). New Norcia, a 19th-century Benedictine abbey. Coach tours to the Pinnacles (Nambung National Park) and to Wave Rock at Hyden. Swan Valley and Margaret River wineries. Wildflower displays in the desert Aug to Nov.

Capital of Western Australia, in the SW corner of the continent. 12 mls N of the port of Fremantle. 2,500 mls SW of Darwin. 1,700 mls W of Adelaide. 10 mls SW of the international airport, with good taxi and bus connections to town.

Strung out along the Sunset Coast on the Indian Ocean. Surrounded by desert, which encroaches upon some suburbs. Backed by the Darling Range and bisected by the Swan River.

Telephone Area Code: 8
Website: www.perthtouristcentre.com.au

Airport : Perth
Airport Code: PER
Flight time from ther U.K.: 19 hrs