Measuring 4 mls from E to W and N to S with a population over 1 million, Italy's third largest city is an important industrial centre and major seaport which nevertheless has something to offer visitors unruffled by its exuberant energy, noise, grime and anarchic, chaotic traffic. It boasts a bewildering array of sights from monumental historical buildings, vast squares, parks, churches, splendid museums and palaces to art galleries, bustling shopping streets and animated open-air markets. The historic heart of Naples is the Spaccanapoli with its lava paving, cathedral, host of Renaissance and baroque churches, and ubiquitous, tooting, weaving scooters; the area is currently undergoing much-needed restoration after neglect dating back to World War II and earthquake damage in 1980. More rundown areas include the extensive, seedy Piazza Garibaldi by the main station and the poorer residential Quartiere Spagnoli, with its rank warrens of narrow streets and alleys, hanging washing and pock-marked tenements. To the SW of the old town lies cosmopolitan Piazza Municipio, a convenient starting point for exploring the handsome public buildings and hectic shopping streets in the vicinity. Also nearby is Naples' diverting seafront esplanade, where you can watch boats leaving for the islands and beyond. To the W lie the smart sloping suburbs of Chiaia and Mergellina whose villas and gardens provide comparative respite from the tumult and heat of the centre, offering fine views of the bay, irregular city skyline and magnificent, moody Vesuvius.

Streetwise or adventurous middlemarket singles and couples interested in Italian culture generally and antiquities. Not for families, the naive or those with walking difficulties. As with many destinations, it is prudent to avoid strolling the streets with expensive cameras or jewellery on show and keep a close eye on handbags and wallets.

Reasonable choice of middlemarket hotels in both respectable and dubious quarters. Cheaper pensions in the historic old town where parking a car is well-nigh impossible.

None. Large, flat rocks form a sea barrier and stretch the length of the "riviera" and promenade (2 mls).

Via Toledo is the most popular shopping thoroughfare; Via Chiaia boasts famous Italian fashion labels. Forcella market, with its din and good-natured haggling, has a broad range of goods including counterfeit perfume, leather goods, alcohol and gaudy local paraphernalia. Animated fish market at Santa Lucia.

Daytime: city tours taking in the 14th-century cathedral (Duomo) and numerous churches in Spaccanapoli; world-renowned archaeological museum with treasures from nearby Pompeii and Herculaneum; National Gallery in the 18th-century palace of Capodimonte, overlooking the city; 17th-century Royal Palace and adjacent 13th-century Castel Nuovo castle; San Carlo opera house; 13th-century port of Santa Lucia with its castle; Catacombs of San Gennaro and San Severo, some dating to the 2nd century; hilltop Carthusian monastery of San Martino (founded in the 13th century) and the neighbouring fortress of Sant'Elmo. Nightlife: plenty of nightclubs, cocktail bars and lively cafes; high-standard opera at San Carlo. Annual open-air music festival in July in Capodimonte Park.

Abundance of restaurants, pizzerias and even fast-food joints (friggitorie). Plenty of quality seafood (particularly at the waterfront restaurants of Santa Lucia), gargantuan inexpensive pizzas (invented here in the 18th century) and ingenious pasta dishes. Mozzarella cheese from buffalo milk is a local speciality and the wine of the region respectable. Prices compare favourably with the UK.

Services comprise regular bone-shaking buses following complicated routes, a tram system across town, a limited Metro and 4 funiculars; economical day-tickets can be purchased at newspaper kiosks. The Circumvesuviana train is a speedy way to Pompeii, Herculaneum or Sorrento. Ferries and hydrofoils to the islands of Capri, Ischia and Procida. Taxis are expensive.

Half day: city tours. Full day: Greek ruins at Cumae and Paestum; Roman remains of evocative Pompeii and Herculaneum; steaming crater of Vesuvius; Sorrento and the Amalfi coast; 18th-century royal palace at Caserta; boat trips to islands of Capri, Ischia and Procida.

On the W coast of Italy, in the lower half of the "boot", facing the Tyrrhenian Sea. 138 mls SE of Rome. 306 mls SE of Florence. Capodichino airport 3 mls NE of centre.

On low-lying terrain and foothills surrounding the picturesque Bay of Naples with the Sorrento Peninsula and islands of Capri, Ischia and Procida to the S and W; the active volcano Mt Vesuvius forms a backdrop to the E.

Website: www.enit.it

Airport : Capodichino
Airport Code: NAP
Flight time from ther U.K.: 2 hrs. 30 mins