The capital of Portugal since 1255, Lisbon is steeped in history, its past shaping much of its present-day character; colonial ties and a mixed architectural inheritance give it a truly cosmopolitan feel. During the 15th and 16th centuries, it was one of Europe's main ports with explorers such as da Gama and Magellan setting sail from here on their epic voyages of discovery. Though about 8 mls across, most of interest to tourists lies within easy reach of the compact central area. The oldest district is the Alfama quarter, which dates from the Middle Ages when the city was under Moorish rule; Belem on the waterfront to the SW of the centre is another area of rich historical interest. At the heart of the city lies the bustling Baixa district - rebuilt to a grid-like formation in the 18th century following a devastating earthquake and now one of Lisbon's most popular shopping areas. Just to the N is Rossio, a busy modern square and hub of the city's public-transport network. Above the centre is the vibrant 16th-century Bairro Alto quarter with its buzzing nightlife and the select shopping streets of Chiado. The more modern part of the city in the N beyond Eduardo VII Park has little of tourist interest but the Park of Nations to the E is well worth a visit. Originally the site of Expo 98, it has been redeveloped and is now a popular riverfront leisure area.

A popular city-break destination, particularly for couples and budget-minded travellers, as prices compare favourably to the UK. The steep streets are a test of stamina, but funiculars, lifts and the city's quaint trams (electricos) are a great help.

Lisbon's accommodation was widely upgraded for Expo 98 and offers plenty of choice, from pensions geared towards the budget market and character options to familiar international-chain hotels. Most properties are located in the centre, close to the key districts of Baixa and Bairro Alto, as well as along the main boulevard Avenida da Liberdade and around Eduardo VII Park. Demand is high in summer, so advance booking is advisable; at other times there is wider availability and some discounts.

The nearest are along Costa do Estoril - notably the resorts of Estoril and Cascais, which are easily accessible by train from the centre. Across the River Tagus, the beaches and dunes of Caparica are also popular.

Colourful, varied and good value. The Baixa district is the traditional shopping area with many specialist retailers; look out for traditional items like hand-embroidered tablecloths, tapestries and ceramics. The Chiado area for designer stores. Bairro Alto is a good bet for antiques. Amoreiras is a large, popular shopping complex close to the centre. Good buys generally are leather goods, cork products and bottles of port. Plenty of markets, notably Feira da Ladra (Tues and Sat).

Daytime: city walks (making good use of trams and funiculars when the streets are particularly steep), exploring central areas like Baixa and Bairro Alto, the old Moorish quarter of Alfama (with St George's Castle and 12th-century Se Cathedral), the select shopping district of Chiado and the lively, regenerated docks area (Docas); also Belem with its numerous museums and notable buildings including Torre de Belem (16th-century white stone tower), the Jeronimos Monastery (UNESCO World Heritage Site) and the towering Monument to the Discoveries; well over 30 museums, from archaeology and military history to ceramics and modern art; Eduardo VII Park with a fine collection of tropical plants; the impressively large aquarium in the Park of Nations; river cruises. Nightlife: head for the Bairro Alto district for bars, live music (African bands are popular) and "fado" houses for traditional dance and music; the action starts late evening, with Fri and Sat nights the liveliest. The slightly pricier docks area also has its fair share of drinking establishments and clubs. The Belem Cultural Centre and Gulbenkian Foundation are the main venues for theatre, dance and classical music. The Park of Nations has a couple of concert venues, including a large indoor arena. Various cinemas with a couple of multiscreen options.

An interesting variety of mostly reasonably priced restaurants, ranging from simple snack bars and cafes to traditional tavernas and some fine-dining options. The Baixa and Bairro Alto districts have plenty of affordable eateries; the docks area can be a little more pricey. Portugal's colonial links are evident in the many African, Goan and Brazilian restaurants dotted around the city. Traditional favourites are seafood (especially salted cod, fish stews and sardines) and mouth-watering desserts and cakes - particularly the very sweet, almond-flavoured toucinho do ceu and pasteis de Belem, a kind of custard tart. Local wines and port are also well worth sampling.

A reasonably efficient bus and tram network takes the strain out of the city's many hills, while a modern Metro runs from the centre to the suburbs. The Lisbon Card is good value, offering free use of all public transport and reduced entrance fees to some attractions; individual tickets can also be purchased. Frequent trains operate to nearby resorts and inland to Sintra; regular train service to the Algarve, Oporto and Madrid. There is also a ferry service across the river.

Half day: Palace of Queluz. Full day: the beaches and resorts of Costa do Estoril and Costa da Caparica; Setubal and its many churches; the historic hillside town of Sintra with its palaces and Monserrate Gardens; the Sintra-Cascais National Park including Cabo da Roca, the westernmost point of mainland Europe; Mafra and its imposing 18th-century palace; the picturesque white-washed village of Obidos. Two days: the city of Oporto; beaches and resorts on the Algarve.

About a third of the way up Portugal's W (Atlantic) coast. 195 mls S of Oporto. 180 mls NW of Faro and the Algarve. 135 mls W of Badajoz and the Spanish border. 3 mls S of Lisbon international airport.

At the broad estuary of the River Tagus, situated on 7 hills on the river's N bank. Surrounded by barren hills and pockets of farmland and forestry with the beaches of Costa do Estoril and Costa Azul to the W and S.

Website: www.atl-turismolisboa.pt

Airport : Lisboa
Airport Code: LIS
Flight time from ther U.K.: 2 hrs. 30 mins