Johannesburg

Measuring roughly 27 by 21 mls, Jo'burg (as it's commonly called) is sub-Saharan Africa's largest city. It is only here at all because gold was discovered in huge quantities in 1886. However, nothing remains of the original gold-rush town, except a Disney-style re-creation, and there's precious little left of the Victorian city which was built on the great wealth, either. Today, Johannesburg is the hub of South Africa's massive mining and manufacturing industries, its centre a mass of skyscraper office buildings surrounded by the most run-down inner-city sprawl imaginable. Since the demolition of apartheid and the infamous pass laws, poor blacks have flooded into the city and crime is high. Johannesburg has one of the world's highest murder rates and the city streets are effectively a no-go area for strangers and tourists. Cash points should be used with care and never at night; it is best to go into a bank during daytime. Even local businesses are relocating to the affluent N suburbs such as Sandton and Rosebank, 8 and 4 mls away respectively, where small cities are sprouting - with full security, of course.

In reality tourists only go to (or rather through) Johannesburg because it is the country's major airport hub and gateway to the province of Mpumalanga and its game reserves. Unless visiting friends or relations, or on business in the city, most people tend to avoid it as much as possible. If an overnight is necessary because of flight schedules, some people may prefer to use airport hotels.

A relatively small selection of hotels from 3- to 5-stars, used mainly for overnights between flights or onward connections on tours etc. Virtually all hotels used by UK tour operators have followed the exodus of business premises and commercial offices out to the relatively safer, and definitely more pleasant, affluent N suburbs like Rosebank and Sandton.

Mainly in modern, glitzy and expensive malls insulated from the weather and patrolled by armed security personnel.

Little to see in the city other than anonymous skyscrapers and its rather frightening inner-city streets, which most hotel staff and tour leaders will tell you to avoid unless escorted, especially at night. The suburbs are affluent and chic but of no scenic interest to the tourist. Best to be content with what is available in your hotel and wait patiently to move on.

Shopping malls at Sandton and Rosebank have numerous restaurants and are relatively safe. Other than these, it is probably best to eat in and avoid the risk of travelling, especially after dark.

Best to use transport organised by your hotel, which should use reputable taxi companies with fare schedules that can often be charged to your room. Car rental if required, but it is essential to know your route and lock doors; don't get lost and avoid asking for directions in suspect areas.

Fossils at Sterkfontein Caves, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Gold Reef City, a theme park on the site of a gold mine, with a museum, tours of a late 19th-century mine, rides on a vintage steam train, tribal dances and a casino. Tours of working gold and diamond mines. Soweto tour. City tour (day or night). Zoo. Helicopter sightseeing.

Towards the NE of the country, 280 mls inland from the Indian Ocean. 875 mls NE of Cape Town; 370 mls NW of Durban. 19 mls W of the international airport.

At an altitude of 5,700 ft on the highveld (grassland plateau).

Telephone Area Code: 11
Website: www.joburg.org.za

Airport : Jan Smuts
Airport Code: JNB
Flight time from ther U.K.: 12 hrs