Although best known for its most conspicuous historical relic, the Moorish fortress and palace of the Alhambra, Granada is a predominantly modern city with a central area measuring around 1½ mls from E to W and 1¼ mls N to S, with suburbs fanning out for 1 ml or so to the N and S. Despite widespread urban destruction over the past 40 years, it has managed to retain more of its rich architectural heritage than might appear at first glance. Just head up into the hilly alleys above Plaza Nueva and you'll find the quiet, old Muslim quarter of Albaicin with its narrow streets, secluded inner gardens and evocative Moorish gates, fountains and houses. But Granada is also a busy university city with a lively street life which goes on through the night until breakfast time - some discos don't even open their doors until midnight! The hustle and bustle created by student nightlife and traffic offers an interesting contrast to the generally laid-back and calm atmosphere that permeates the more historic areas. It is also a city of weather contrasts: at 2,000 ft, it's freezing in winter (the nearby ski-resort of Sierra Nevada, 20 mls up the mountain, attracts increasing numbers of British skiers), oven-hot during the day in midsummer but usually cool enough on summer nights to require a jersey.

A worthwhile stop for anyone with an interest in things cultural and historical. It also offers lots of student nightlife, making it a natural draw for young people from all over the world wishing to study Spanish and party.

A wide range of hotels and pensions for all tastes and pockets, pensions to 5-stars.

Granada offers a variety of shopping experiences, from lively, modern streets to quiet alleys with workshops selling local handicrafts; however, most prices are quite high compared with the UK. The pedestrianised Calle de los Mesones, with its designer shops and buskers, is a real treat to wander down in the evening; a good selection of handicrafts can be found in and around Plaza Nueva, including hand-made guitars, weaving, basketry, leather goods, ornate Moorish-style lamps and ceramics; Plaza Bib-Rambla has a selection of market stalls selling mainly flowers.

Daytime: sightseeing, including the Alhambra, Palace of Charles V and lovely Generalife gardens (in high season, purchase tickets in advance from a branch of Banco BBV); magnificent 16th- to 18th-century cathedral with lavish façades and cavernous interior; spectacular Monastery de la Cartuja with its extravagant frescoed interior; various churches such as San Pedro y San Pablo and San Nicolas in Albaicin, for views of the Alhambra; Sacromonte Hill, famous for its cave dwellings. Nightlife: lots of bars, many offering "tapas" (little hot or cold snacks) along with the drinks at no extra cost; flamenco shows or "zambras" in the caves of the Sacromonte quarter; a couple of nightclubs which stage local folklore shows; plenty of discos; extensive year-round programme of cultural events including theatre, jazz, and music and dance festivals.

The principal entertainment in Granada, though not an outstanding restaurant town by any stretch of the imagination. Probably the most interesting option is the local version of the pub crawl - walking from one tapas bar to the next, taking in the atmosphere and the snacks. Mediocre Chinese restaurants and pizzerias abound, and there is an abundance of cafes surrounding the squares. More upmarket dining can be found in some hotels, especially near the Alhambra, although prices can be steep. Some of the best value-for-money dining can be had at the country inns or "ventas" found in the villages around the fringes of the city.

Limited to buses and taxis locally with trains and planes for longer trips.

Full day: tours of surrounding ancient villages including Guadix with its modern-day cave-dwellers, cathedral and Moorish castle, Montefrio with its Moorish fortress, and Santa Fe. Full/two days: beaches of Costas del Sol, Almeria and Tropical; Sierra Nevada mountains for hiking and nature tours (summer), skiing (winter).

In the SE of the Iberian peninsula, in the province of Andalucia. 40 mls from the coast at Motril. 80 mls SE of Cordoba. 150 mls E of Seville. 10 mls E of the airport.

Set in a fertile lowland plain formed by the confluence of 2 rivers, with the Sierra Nevada mountains as a dramatic backdrop.

Website: www.andalucia.com

Airport : Malaga
Airport Code: AGP
Flight time from ther U.K.: 2 hrs. 50 mins