A major commercial and industrial centre, Durban is a massive modern city with suburbs sprawling in all inland directions, and occupying an area measuring roughly 18½ by 15½ mls. Its population of 3½ million comprises a cosmopolitan mix, including a sizeable Indian community, local Zulus as well as whites and blacks. The centre boasts a few well-preserved or adapted Victorian buildings, but the pride of Durban is the so-called Golden Mile, an attractive, pedestrianised beach front with most of the city's skyscraper hotels, plenty of green areas and a promenade full of attractions, such as paddling and swimming pools, a funfair and flea market. Anyone who has visited Benidorm will relate to this larger combination of big beach, tall hotels and seaside promenade. The rest of the resort area, however, is rather brash and tacky and does not live up to this considerable civic investment. Extra security measures have been put in place along the Golden Mile, and include increased policing with officers on horseback and bicycles. Durban is beset by violent crime and, although this is less of a problem in the tourist areas, muggings are common, so sensible precautions are in order, especially at night and in the vicinity of cash points.

Billed as South Africa's premier holiday destination and, for the national population, it probably is so. However, mass-market appeal has created a fairly tacky seaside resort similar to many of the larger Spanish ones at their worst. Unless visiting friends or relatives, there are better places to spend valuable time in the country. If a seaside break is essential between safaris and Cape Town, Umhlanga Rocks, 11 mls N, is a more attractive option.

One 5-star, one 4-star and a whole raft of beachfront tower blocks in the 3-star category, which says something about the type of market attracted here. Many of the older hotels have upgraded and refurbished in anticipation of the expected tourist boom. Several more, mainly modern, hotels at Umhlanga Rocks.

A huge, broad stretch of golden sand running the whole length of the Golden Mile and beyond. Separated by piers and variously called North Beach, Dairy Beach and South Beach. Umhlanga Rocks has slightly narrower but equally sandy beaches separated by rocky promontories. The Indian Ocean can be rough and there are sharks off this coast, so it is advisable to swim only where it is recommended and within view of lifeguards. Shark netting exists along the whole of the Golden Mile.

A wide selection, from large stores to boutiques, markets and Zulu women street hawkers all along the beach front. The "Tourist Junction" building has plenty of small tourist shops, housed in old railway workshops. Indian market for curry spices, teak chests, brass etc. Various upmarket suburban malls, such as Pavilion near Westville and Gateway at Umhlanga (which even has cinemas and a theatre).

Daytime: various Victorian buildings, including City Hall (which has a library, art gallery and natural history museum); Da Gama Clock; uShaka Marine World (including dolphinarium, aquarium and water park) in The Point area; Amphitheatre Gardens, botanical gardens and several parks; sports stadiums; Minitown, with models of many Durban buildings; beachfront funfair; snake park; Jumah Mosque; beach-based activities. Nightlife: some culture with concerts and shows, but mainly devoted to bars, discos and nightclubs operating till late.

Plenty of restaurants (both in and out of hotels) reflecting the city's cosmopolitan nature. Lots of cheaper options at steakhouses, pizzerias, burger bars and other fast-food eateries.

Public transport is not advised. Taxis are best ordered through your hotel, which will normally have a fixed contract. Car hire will give greater freedom. Rickshaw rides pulled by Zulu "warriors" along Golden Mile.

City tour. Durban by night. Oriental drive/Indian market. Various harbour cruises and tours to the N and S coasts, game reserves, Zulu villages, battlefields and Drakensberg Mountains.

On the E coast of South Africa, in the province of KwaZulu-Natal. 1,050 mls NE of Cape Town. 575 mls NE of Port Elizabeth. 370 mls SE of Johannesburg and its international airport. 12 mls N of Durban International Airport.

On fairly flat land facing E onto the Indian Ocean and S onto the Bay of Natal, one of the world's largest natural harbours.

Telephone Area Code: 31
Website: www.durbanexperience.co.za

Airport : Louis Botha
Airport Code: DUR
Flight time from ther U.K.: 12 hrs