Cairns

Built in the 1870s as a port serving the goldfields far inland, central Cairns has a small-town feel to it (population only 100,000) and is now almost entirely dedicated to tourism. The terrain is flat, with the streets following the common Australian grid pattern, and the town centre is little more than ½ ml wide by ¾ ml long. Only a few buildings - such as the attractive, old, wooden houses built on stilts and the former customs house - serve as reminders of pre-tourism Cairns, but there is little high-rise development apart from the odd tower block, built in 60s or 70s style (or lack of it). The central point is the pedestrianised City Place; also of interest is the Esplanade, a pleasant tree-lined green area alongside the less attractive mud flats, and Marlin Marina, a busy boating centre at the entrance to Trinity Inlet.

Mainly used as the gateway or as a base to visit the islands of the Great Barrier Reef, tropical rainforest or "accessible outback". Particularly favoured by divers, ecotourists and bird-watchers.

Full range from 4- and 5-star luxury to a string of budget backpacker hostels along the waterfront.

None in Cairns itself. Instead the town looks out over huge tidal mud flats whose only saving grace is that they attract flocks of birds to feed during their annual migration. Proper golden sandy beaches are found all along the 16-ml stretch of coast N of the city, past the airport and across Barron River. Beach buses go to the miniresorts of Machans, Holloway, the evocatively named Yorkeys Knob, Trinity, Kewarra, Clifton, Palm Cove and Ellis. All are plagued with deadly box jellyfish Oct to May, although in some places nets have been erected to keep the stingers out.

Wide range of local outlets in the town centre. Several covered shopping malls including Orchid Plaza, Pier Marketplace and Cairns Central in the old railway station. Covered night market on the sea front selling crafts, jewellery etc.

Daytime: botanical gardens with lakes and tropical woodland; large aquarium; museum; art gallery. Nightlife: plenty of places to eat or drink to live music, including a jazz club; some discos; 2 cinemas; any combination of dinner, show and gambling at the casino in the Sofitel Reef Hotel.

No shortage of "tucker" options from fine international cuisine in hotels' a la carte restaurants to fast food in seafront cafes. Seafood is a speciality but Thai, Mexican, Japanese, Korean and other ethnic cuisines are also on offer.

Comprehensive bus service, including weekend and night services. Trains N and S. "Pedicabs" (bicycle-powered rickshaws) around town. Daily ferry/cruise links to Palm Cove and Port Douglas. Metered taxis.

Half day: bungee jumping; tandem sky-diving; white-water rafting; hot-air balloon trip. Full/two days: boat trips to the Great Barrier Reef and its islands, normally incorporating opportunities for snorkelling, diving, swimming and picnicking; Daintree rainforest tour, including nocturnal wildlife safaris; scenic railway ride to Kuranda in the Atherton Tableland (can be combined with a 4½-ml cable-car ride through and over the rainforest); various trips to the "accessible outback" including the Undara lava tubes (4-hr drive).

In the NE of Australia, about two-thirds of the way up the Queensland coast. 1,100 mls NW of Brisbane. 460 mls NW of Mackay. 670 mls NW of Rockhampton. 750 mls NW of Gladstone. 3 mls S of its own international airport, served by a frequent shuttle-bus service.

On the N shore of Trinity Inlet where it opens into the Coral Sea. Facing the Great Barrier Reef to the E, with Green and Fitzroy Islands close by. Separated from the interior by the Great Dividing Range (at this part called the Atherton Tableland) just to the W. A good road leads N as far as Daintree, where it becomes an unsurfaced track in the rainforest of Cape Tribulation. The Bruce Highway heads S, following the coast to Brisbane.

Telephone Area Code: 7
Post Code: 4870
Website: www.cairns.aust.com

Airport : Cairns
Airport Code: CNS
Flight time from ther U.K.: 24 hrs