Dominated by 2 hills - the Acropolis and Lycabettus - Athens, with an area of 15 sq mls and a population of around 748,000, is as famous for its terrible traffic congestion and horrific air pollution as it is for its ancient ruins. Modern, largely concrete and expanding rapidly in all directions, it embraces some rather run-down districts, although some main squares and streets were renovated - and buildings restored - in time for the 2004 Olympics, particularly around the Acropolis. Syntagma Square, opposite the Parliament building, is the centre for tourists as well as business; everything traditionally visited in the city is within ¾ ml W of here, and can be most conveniently reached on foot. Around the base of the Acropolis lies the Ottoman-influenced Plaka district, a picturesque and mainly pedestrianised area with some residential streets but mostly souvenir shops, restaurants, tavernas and markets; in places, it has the atmosphere of an Arab souk. Neighbouring Psiri and Thisio, while not quite as picturesque, are more popular with the locals, with cool cafes and impressive views of the Acropolis. Omonia Square, NW of Syntagma, is the centre of the red-light district and the area should generally be avoided: it attracts drug addicts, pickpockets and beggars that live in the underground station. Large parks include Green Park, Lycabettus and the National Gardens - however, stray cats and dogs can be a problem. Because of the heat, spring and autumn are the best seasons to visit; Athens definitely looks better before the long summer drought.

For all ages and all budgets; particularly for those with an interest in cultural history - and with strong legs. May not be suitable for people with mobility difficulties and anyone with respiratory problems should be very wary, even on the outskirts and particularly in the height of summer.

All types of hotels, from 5-star international to backstreet pensions. Many establishments were renovated or upgraded for the 2004 Olympics.

Everything from department stores (including M&S and BHS) and speciality shops (jewellery, ceramics, leather goods etc) to delicatessens, antiques and book shops. Huge meat, fish and fruit markets; flea market in Monastiraki (Plaka). Gold is a good buy.

Daytime: a wealth of ancient sites, such as the Acropolis, the Agora and the temple of Olympian Zeus; a plethora of world-class museums, many (such as the Acropolis, Agora, Kanellopoulos and the renowned National Archaeological Museum) housing finds dating from the city's classical past; Benaki Museum for ancient and modern Greek art; the Byzantine Museum; Parliament buildings with the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier (guarded by soldiers in local pom-pom costume); sweeping views from the top of Lycabettus Hill; 2 parks (Kifissia Park and the National Garden and Zappeion Park) offer respite from the city's chaos; Attica Zoological Park; Hellenic Cosmos, a virtual-reality presentation on ancient Greece. Nightlife: nightclubs, discos, bars, Greek dancing and singing, cinemas (mostly English-language films, subtitled), theatres (mostly Greek), rock concerts, opera, ballet, "son et lumiere" at the Acropolis nightly (April to Oct).

Traditional Greek food like souvlaki and slow-cooked lamb; tomatoes with everything. French, Italian, Chinese, Indian, Thai and Vietnamese restaurants. Fast food of the ubiquitous international-chain variety. Street barrows selling grilled corn on the cob, sesame bread rings and chestnuts.

A comprehensive, relatively cheap system of public transport serves the city, but suffers from overcrowding, especially at rush hours. A reliable and regular Metro service. Extensive network of buses and trolley buses; tickets are available from kiosks or booths at bus stations. Trains (tickets at stations). Airport bus approximately every 20 mins; the journey should take 45 mins, but allow up to 1½ hrs in peak traffic times. Taxis: flag them down, shout your destination and hope they'll take you; there are often other passengers, but the price is not split. Taxi rank at Syntagma Square.

Half day: Cape Sounion; Temple of Poseidon; Mount Parnitha National Park for walking trails. Full day: Aegina Island from Piraeus Port (35 mins by hydrofoil) for local tavernas and beaches; coastal resorts of Glyfada, Voula and Vouliagmeni, all at least 10 mls from the city centre.

In the SE of mainland Greece. 6 mls NE of the port of Piraeus. 20 mls W of Rafina. 16 mls W of the airport.

In a bowl formed by the surrounding mountains, straggling W to the sea.

Telephone Area Code: 210
Website: www.cityofathens.gr

Airport : Hellinikon
Airport Code: ATH
Flight time from ther U.K.: 3 hrs 30 mins